Last Updated on November 15, 2024 by foxintheforest

If you want me to never stop talking, then bring up backpacking in the Grand Canyon. I’m literally obsessed with off-corridor (that’s not the Rim-to-Rim) backpacks here.

I’ve made multiple trips into the Big Ditch, some solo and a few of them even requiring technical climbing gear. There’s a lot to uncover here.

The reason is that it’s just such a vast, complex, environment.

However, the ticket to ride is expensive – think water hauls, scrambling, scorching temps in zero shade, extreme exposure rock navigation skills, and punishing uphills. If all (or some) of those things appeal to you, then you’ve got to get beyond the basic Rim-to-Rim hike and see what the rest of the canyon has to offer.

At a Glance

Here’s a quick look at the mega highlights of the Grand Canyon. I hand-selected these incredible trails for their unique highlights and high chance of a remote experience.

Name (tap to jump to the trail)	Number of days	Best for…	Highlights	Lowlights
Cape Final	1	Beginner backpackers	Camp right on the rim at a single campsite. You’ll be the only one there.	You don’t dip below the rim. You’ll need to carry in all of your water.
Horseshoe Mesa	1-2	A quick getaway	Incredible views.	water access is tricky for the difficulty.
The Beamer Trail	2-3	Exposure and solitude	Short slot canyon (nontechnical) and scrambling sections. Unique views of the colorful Supergroup.	Out and back, you’ll repeat terrain. Beamer has limited shade.
The Escalante Route	3-4	Extreme backpackers who don’t want to carry ropes	Short slot canyon (non technical) and scrambling sections. Unique views of the colorful Supergroup.	Lots of areas with no shade.
Royal Arch Route	3-4	Spring-fed waterfalls, a rappel, variety of terrain and environments.	Spring-fed waterfalls, a rappel, variety of terrain and enviroments.	Access is a complete pain.

Difficulty Ratings Explained

Alright so the first thing you need to understand about backpacking in the Grand Canyon, is that the Grand Canyon is NOT the Rim to Rim. The Rim to Rim is the “Grand Canyon Lite.” Gone are the bear lockers, shady rest spots, a potable water line, donkey trains, a hotel, and massive campgrounds. There’s much more of a wilderness feel here and it is 100 times more remote.

With all of that comes a lot of difficulty. I’ve backpacked all over the world, and the only environment that comes close to the brutality of backpacking in the Grand Canyon is the stifling jungles lining the Equator.

This place just hits differently.

So here’s what the difficulty ratings on this list mean.

• Easiest: Beginner backpacker friendly. You could have never backpacked in your life and handle this one.
• Easy: Comparable to a moderate to difficult backpack. You’ll be on better-trodden trails, water is more accessible, and you may be reserving specific campsites. Some minor exposure.
• Moderate: Expect difficult, steep hiking. May need to water carry depending on your itinerary. Trails are not always easy to follow. Exposure is moderate. Sun/shade issues.
• Difficult: Expect a LOT of difficult hiking. Scrambling or extreme exposure is present, sometimes for long sections of trail. Trails may be difficult or faint in spots. Sun/shade is likely an issue for longer stretches. Water planning will be essential. Water carry is likely required. REMOTE.
• Technical: Technical gear required such as a harness/2x length runner, rappel gear, and rope. Heavy amounts of route finding, scrambling, and exposure. Water carry required. Shade can be an issue. Extremely remote and rescue may not be an option. Not recommended unless you have the proper skills and lots of experience in this terrain.

Incredible Grand Canyon backpacking trips in order of difficulty

1. Cape Final on the North Rim

Cape Final was my first-ever backpacking trip in the Grand Canyon and I took a friend who had never slept in a tent, much less backpacked before.

This single reservable site on the North Rim is a must-do if you’re looking for something that’s super manageable.

The views from this spot are just amazing and catching the sunset here without anyone else around is a real treat.

Totally family-friendly (minus the obvious, you’re standing at the edge of a massive canyon thing) and logistically super simple.

Difficulty: Easiest
Number of Nights: 1
Miles and elevation gain: 4.0 miles 495 ft of gain
Water access? None, you must bring all of your water with you.
Shade? Yes.
Permit Zone: Cape Final NA1

2. Horseshoe Mesa via the Grandview Trail

I often call Horseshoe Mesa a romantic weekend getaway. Cuz that’s exactly what it was for my partner and I when we decided to dip below the rim. As our first time putting our big toe into the wilds of the Big Ditch, Horseshoe Mesa is a real treat.

It’s unique to be able to stay on this layer of canyon, and the views really reflect that. Options for day hiking around include looping the mesa (somewhat boring) or hopping on the Tonto Trail – we loved going towards Cottonwood Creek.

Each of the arms are an awesome place to catch sunrise or sunset.

Pro Tip: The right arm has an incredible view and is the perfect place to enjoy some dinner!

Difficulty: Easy
Number of Nights: 1-2
Miles and elevation gain: 5.6 miles, 2,562′ to the campsites, 12.2 miles to loop the Mesa. We clocked 22 miles down to the north side of Grapevine Canyon and back along with both arms of the Mesa
Water access? Seasonal springs are available in Cottonwood Creek and Miner’s Creek (arsenic in the water). Permanent water at Hance Creek (hard to reach).
Shade? Yes.
Permit Zone: BF5 for Horseshoe Mesa, BG9 and BE9 are at-large zones
Other info: Horseshoe Mesa has toilets, this trail is treacherous in winter, so bring traction.

3. Hermit’s Rest (or Boucher) to Bright Angel

A classic hike that is off-corridor (that’s the Rim-to-Rim) adjacent. This is the perfect longer adventure for those who are just starting to venture off-corridor. The designated sites and (comparatively) ample water make this one a bit easier to swallow logistically.

Opting for Boucher over Hermit’s Rest is a bit more of an undertaking since the Hermit Trail is generally more trafficked and in better shape the Boucher. But Boucher is a little more out there without committing to a more extreme adventure, making it perfect for the more ambitious backpacker.

Difficulty: Moderate
Number of Nights: 2-3 for the Hermit Trail, add 1 night if you’re going down Boucher
Miles and elevation gain: 22.8 miles 5,242′ of gain for Hermit Trail, 30.4 miles, 6,453 feet of gain/loss for Boucher. Options to add mileage based on camping itinerary.
Water access? Colorado River, Dripping Spring, Boucher Creek, Hermit Creek, Monument Creek, Santa Maria Spring, Havasu Gardens (treated)
Shade? Yes.
Permit Zone: Individual campsites must be reserved (BM7, BM8, BL7, BL8, BL6, BL5, BL4, Havasu Gardens). Boucher is an at-large zone: BN9
Other info: Individual campgrounds/campsites have toilets. You’ll need to shuttle a car or take the shuttle for this trail (you can park your car at Hermit’s Rest during shuttle-only times with a permit).

4. The Beamer Trail

Incredibly imposing cliffs and steep drops await those who are bold enough to take on this remote precipice. You’re often inches away from a fatal cliff edge along the Beamer.

But this scantly-visited section of the canyon is so unique. The canyon goes from being quite wide, to exceptionally narrow. You are tip-toeing right along the river with around 400 feet below you and several thousand-foot walls above you (yes, that’s really the rim up there).

The trail terminates at the Confluence – where the turquoise waters of the Little Colorado and Colorado meet.

Actually seeing the turquoise water is tougher than it sounds. There is almost no shade on the trail, so the best time to hike is in the fall – when the threat of storms/melt-off is gone (even a trickle upstream of the mineral-laden spring that gives the water its magical glow will destroy the color in the river) but it isn’t insanely hot.

When I was here, I missed the colors by just 2 days and the river still wasn’t clear over a month later.

I’ll always hold a special place in my heart for the Beamer – it was my first-ever solo backpacking trip. With that being said, it’s not for beginners. But if you want to be alone, this is it.

Difficulty: Difficult
Number of Nights: 2-3
Miles and elevation gain: 32.1 miles, 9,004 feet of gain/loss
Water access? Colorado River. Camps are mostly on the Colorado, making water management simple, but there are long (including a 12-mile round-trip) stretches of trail where water isn’t available.
Shade? LIMITED! The 3.2-miles stretch from Tanner Beach to Palisade Beach has zero shade. The Beamer Trail has limited shade but morning sun in the fall. Palisades Beach camp and Tanner Beach camp both have shade.
Permit Zone: Tanner BB9, BA9 Palisades and Beamer
Other info: Tanner beach has toilets. Only room for one tent at Palisades. No camping within 1/2 mile of the Little Colorado River.

5. The Nankoweap Trail – North Rim

Known as the hardest trail in the Grand Canyon (but a far cry from the hardest route) this trail is steep, exposed, and a bit grueling.

First, you’ve got to surmount Saddle Mountain just to access the trail. Then from there your knees will be punished as you tip-toe across off-camber ledges near Marion Point. Not for the squeamish at all. Take your time with your footing!

Many people stop in Nankoweep Creek and set up a base camp. From here you can hike down to the famous river-adjacent Nankoweap Granaries. More intrepid (and highly experienced) may want to sniff around the internet for whisperings of technical routes, scrambles, and hidden locations here.

Difficulty: Difficult
Number of Nights: 2-3
Miles and elevation gain: 23.4 miles, 7,444 feet of gain/loss
Water access? Colorado River. Nankoweap Creek. It’s recommended to cache water at Tilted Mesa or Marion Point for the return.
Permit Zone: AE9
Other info: You’ll want a 4×4 vehicle to reach the trailhead. This area allows helicopters, so expect some daytime noise.

6. The Escalante Route

Arguably one of the most famous backpacking trips in the Grand Canyon, everyone who loves a little thrill should try the Escalante Route once!

This varied route takes you from open river views (unique for the Grand Canyon), to slot-like canyons, and even has a scramble (over too quickly) on the famous Papago Wall. Expect a variety of terrain and cover a lot of ground on this route.

What’s more is you can plan your camp spots to not have any water hauls – a real plus in the canyon. However, beware – the rodents along this route are FIERCE. Carrying a rat sack should be required!

Difficulty: Difficult
Number of Nights: 2-3
Miles and elevation gain: 29.1 miles, 7,713 feet of gain
Water access? Colorado River. Hance Creek. Miner’s Spring
Permit Zone: BB9, BC9, BD9 (if you’re going up New Hance, not recommended), BG9, and BF5
Other info: Tanner Beach and Horseshoe Mesa have toilets. There are a lot of itinerary options so do your homework! You’ll need to shuttle cars.

7. The Royal Arch Route

This has to be my all-time favorite backpacking trip in the entire Grand Canyon. But you’ll need to know how to rappel – yes you read that right – to enter.

The Royal Arch Route is a challenging, technical route. With days of scrambling, route finding, exposure, and pulling a bouldering move or two over car-sized boulders.

The sheer physicality of it is something really special, but I think what makes this route so utterly unique is that every day is so different.

You’ll be meandering along the Esplanade to be stuffed into a narrow canyon, then rappeling down to the beach. A notable side trip to Elves Chasm is a must-do.

Difficulty: Technical
Number of Nights: 3-5
Miles and elevation gain: 2.6 miles, 6,541 feet of gain
Water access? Colorado River, Royal Arch Canyon. Expect to dry camp unless you want to add a lot of mileage and elevation to your days.
Permit Zone: BR9, BQ9
Other info: Trailhead access is pretty much non-existant unless you have a 4×4 vehicle with clearance. Access to the South Bass Trailhead is confusing, remote, and dangerous if you haven’t driven much in this environment. Otherwise plan on adding another 14 miles (no water) to your trip.

Need to know before you go!

There are a lot of skills you’ll want to know to get into Grand Canyon backpacking. And each of these trails levels up your skillset one step at a time.

However, there are a few rules you need to keep in mind.

• The temperatures listed in the inner canyon are often taken from the shade. Plan on adding 10-15 degrees to any weather reports from Phantom Ranch and that’s how it will feel to be in that environment.
• Rodents are ravenous here. They chew through your pack, while you’re wearing it! Having a rat sack and packing cotton balls soaked in peppermint oil is strongly recommended.
• Do not pee on the beach! The park services requests when possible to pee in the Colorado River.
• Pack out your toilet paper – it’s required! You don’t need WAG bags.
• Not all water is drinkable! Do your homework dangerous mineralized or natural-occurring radioactivity is found throughout the canyon.
• Add a few miles and 1k of gain to most activities. GPS doesn’t pick up micro terrain. I’ve done my best with what I clocked on these trips, but with each trip I get different numbers – welcome to the canyon!

Obtaining Permits to Backpack in the Grand Canyon

EVERY backpacking trip to the Grand Canyon requires a permit. Permits must be obtained in advance (recreation.gov) or as a walk-up at the Backcountry Information Office.

It’s not uncommon for the Backcountry Rangers to heavily question your itinerary and skillset. This is for obvious safety reasons, people die in the inner canyon all the time and most of these itineraries are so remote that rescue is unlikely.

There is a complex lottery system (recommended) you can enter. If you’re entering the lottery, you’ve got a great chance at any of these backpacking trails. You will have to speak with a ranger for 2/3rds of the trails on this list.

Hermit’s Rest to Bright Angel is the most popular, so the lottery is strongly recommended for that trail.

What to Bring

Backpacking the Grand Canyon isn’t about being ultralight it’s about packing efficiently for the environment you’re in. And you’ll want a few items that you don’t bring on your average hike.

I’ve got a great breakdown in my video below:

But here are a few items you’ll want to have that you might not have on hand:

• Ultralightweight Sun Umbrella
• A way to attach your umbrella to your pack
• Ability to haul 8 liters of water
• Sunshirt
• Rat sack
• Alum powder
• Collapsable lightweight bucket
• Strongly recommend a Platypus GravityWorks filter for routes that utilize the Colorado River
• A 2-way satellite communication device

Where to stay

Here’s a quick hack for you. If you do your homework and time your trip right, you can show up at the rim, hike down a few miles into your backcountry zone, and most of the time dry camp.

This can be an easy way to avoid hotels.

Hotels on the rim are expensive (I’ve only stayed at the North Rim Lodge, it was alright) and so is Tusyan. I’ve hated everywhere I’ve ever stayed at Tusyan. It’s overpriced – think $300 a night for a smelly hotel room with black mold in the bathroom. And the food in that town is just…disappointing.

For hotels, I’d recommend The Navajo Land Hotel in Tuba City (about 1.5 hours from the park entrance) or the Cameron Trading Post on the east side of the park.

People stay in Williams, but I’m never coming from that area so I don’t have reccos.

Camping in and out of the park is also an option. Mathers Campground is competitive but in the park. Your other option is dispersed camping in the national forest surrounding the park.

Remember, if you go this route you need to properly bury your waste (and pack out your toilet paper), bring everything with you (including water), and pack out all of your trash.

You can find dispersed, primitive campsites an FR 328 near Tusyan (South Rim) and FR 22 on the North Rim.

Catch me on YouTube!

I talk in-depth about the Grand Canyon and how to have a unique experience on my YouTube Channel. Check out my Grand Canyon playlist and subscribe to get the latest!